Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Istanbul Not Constantinople


Remember that old song? Well perhaps I am dating myself. I really don't remember how young I was when I first heard it. I am certain that at the time I had no idea  it was one and the same place, and equally certain that I had no idea where in the world it was. I am glad to say that is no longer true and in fact have been to Istanbul twice. The first time in 1996 and more recently in 2005 with our good friends Leslie and Nelson English and their son Sean. While Chuck and Nelson were in meetings, Leslie and I shopped while Sean drank apple tea and played board games with the driver.  Or should I say bored games.  He was such a good sport, but I think he had his fill of the apple tea by the end of the trip.  We were lured into a carpet shop and of course drank more apple tea. We spent a great deal of time looking at many beautiful carpets.  Much to the dismay of the shop keeper, we bought not a one.
I am thinking of Istanbul because of a kitchen remodel that we are undertaking. The man who came out to take measurements is from Turkey and was speaking to me of it with such fondness. I miss it, he stated rather pensively. When he asked if I had been to Turkey and I replied that I had, he seemed to regard me as a kindred spirit.   Turkish beaches much nicer than Miami... he proudly announced. Well I have never been to either place, but I have an inkling that he might be right.
Istanbul is a happening place now and recently my niece Ana indicated that it was the place that "everyone" was traveling to these days. The process of Turkey joining the EU may take decades to complete and there is certainly much controversy. I'll leave that to those "with their fingers on the pulse" to discuss. For me, visiting Istanbul was an opportunity to step back in time. Is it Istanbul, or is it Constantinople? Istanbul is certainly a study in contrasts; traditional versus modern. Topkapi Palace, built by the Ottomans of Constantinople, is a city within a city. The Grand Bazaar is a massive maze of small stalls selling everything from A-Zed  and as you pass each one you are invited to come in and have tea...yes, you guessed correctly, more apple tea. The Spice Bazaar offers a palate of colors: gold, orange, yellow; saffron, nutmeg and cumin to name only a few,  with aromas to arouse the senses.  Foodies could certainly spend the entire day here.  This is old Istanbul certainly, yet continues to draw new visitors to its charms.

Although we did not visit the resorts or the beaches, we did take a trip on the Bosphorus when we visited in 1996  The Bosphorus is  the strait which joins the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara and which separates the continents of Europe and Asia. It runs right through Istanbul.  As  we took our trip on a traditional ferry we were able to see many a Ottoman Palace as well as  fortresses perched high on the banks.
Since we made a point to visit during a time other than the 5 calls a day to prayer times, we had an opportunity to enter the Blue Mosque. The mosque was actually named SultanAhmet Mosque for the Sultan who built it in the 17th century. The name Blue Mosque comes from the over 20,000 blue tiles that line the ceiling. This is perhaps one of the most beautiful sights in Istanbul.
Taksim Square is certainly a happening place, with expensive shops, restaurants and many young families out for a stroll to see or be seen.  The "newer" Pera Palas Hotel, a historic hotel built in the later 19th century for passengers on the Orient Express was under going a major restoration when we were last there.  However, we were able to view the room in which it is rumored Agathe Christie wrote the novel Murder on the Orient Express.  It is further rumored that the key to her missing diary was found in the walls of the room in which she always stayed. Perhaps a mystery of its own?
So Istanbul, not Constantinople.  The place of mystical Whirling Dervishes and the heart of the Byzantine Empire.   At whatever name it is called, Istanbul is a fascinating place to visit.

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